It would be a shame to visit Reunion Island without getting carried away by the tasty and attractive scent of vanilla, this unique edible orchis that gives an irreplaceable taste to many dishes. In Reunion Island, vanilla means much more than a plant: it means an history, an insular culture, a practice handed down from generation to generation. Mister Roulof from Saint-André has planted and collected vanilla since he reached working age. Together with his father he is perpetrating a tradition that unfortunately tends to disappear.

Since 1987, Mister Roulof has taken care of the family vanilla plantations in Saint-André. His great grandfather left him an unvaluable heirloom which he takes good care of. Ever year, he collects about 2 tonnes of green vanilla which are exported to the United States and Japan thanks to a distributive trade of the island. Vanilla, which is a local product with a worldwide fame, appears by dint of patience and thoroughness: « This plant takes a long time to grow, the final process is time consuming and strenuous, it demands a complete devotion. » the planter explains.
Indeed, to witness the first blossom, one has to wait for four to six years and then the adequate period for fertilization (from Septembre to Decembre) in order to witness the vanilla beans which will be gathered 9 months later. At this stage of the process, the plant is still green and needs to be boiled at 65° for a few minutes in order to accelerate the process: the beans become brown and start to scent. The vanilla is then put in a wooden box under a wool blanket in order to avoid a thermal shock. Finally, the beans are insolated for three weeks.
Many processes and technics which assure a flavour of an exceptionnal quality. Mister Roulof works together with his 84-year old father who cannot resign himself to leave his activity despite being retired. Father and son bustle about everyday in order to ameliorate their harvests. They will soon add a new plantation to the two hectares they are already cultivating.

Although Saint-André vanilla is much sought-after, it is quite never sold on local supermarkets. It remains a quite expensive product on the market due to its quality and the preparation it requires. Consequently, Madagascar vanilla which has a monopoly, can be found in Reunion Island: “I find it unacceptable that such quantities of vanilla are imported from Madagascar; their product is not so bad but this penalizes the local planters, at the risk of making this culture disappear”, Mister Roulof deplores.
The variety of vanilla planted in Saint-André was imported from Guyana by Captain Philibert in 1819. That is why Reunion Island’s local vanilla does not have a specific indication of origin. The young planter hopes: “If everything goes smooth, we will soon be able to designate it Reunion Island Vanilla”. This new label of origin would give a chance of recognition to local plantations and above all the opportunity to keep them through many generations.

Text and photographs: Béatrice Gonthier