The ocelli drum fish: an itinerary of a well preserved fish

It needs a little boost up.  The ocelli drum fish is taking quite some time to impose itself within the landscape of the Réunionese culinary.  It can be easily found on the stalls of the fishmongers but less on our tables.  Yet, it's not a disenchantment but rather an unawareness.  The "fish culture" can be scary.  To befriend this fish with tender flesh, the Arda (Association Réunionnaise de Développement de l'Aquaculture) is pleased to welcome us.  A guided tour in the backstage of this activity.         

One of the missions of the Arda is to introduce new fields of aquaculture productions in Réunion Island.  The ocelli drum fish features on this programme as well. 

The adventure has started for more than five years, with the importation of thousands of eggs from Martinique.  Particularly incubated, the eggs have produced strong spawners that ensure the growth of the species. 

Since then, the marine station at Port Ouest, ensures all the stages of the farming, first on land and then at sea.            

A hatchery at the Port

It's no easy task.  Controlled by scientists, one must maintain a well structured environment along with a food chain daily.  Pierre Bosc, the manager of Arda, underlines the difficulty of this task: "We must recreate a lifestyle similar to their habitat, otherwise everyone will die.  It's a lengthy job." 

After a few interventions today, the drum fish does not hold any secret.  The experts' teams monitor fully the production, even scheduling the clutching day. 

They adjust the temperatures and light whilst the spawners work on the reproduction of their species in large basins.  The larvae are then brought to the marine hatchery whereof they feed themselves on the plankton, which itself is produced and fed on seaweed.                  

"Off-shore" cages at the bay of Saint-Paul

After a few weeks at the hatchery, the youngest ones continue their growth, at sea, in the "off-shore" cages at the bay of Saint-Paul.  The five cages have been particularly well thought out, they can resist to the most severe swell. 

When it is faced with danger, it disappears into the ocean about fifteen meters deep.  Controlled everyday and relayed by the "Société Aquacole des Mascareignes," lots of drum fish are hence, produced every year in the marine farm stretching over eight hectares in Réunion Island.    

A "clean" fish

Draconian hygiene rules, a very strict food follow-up and a guaranteed traceability, the drum fish is a fish which can safely be eaten. 

Also delicious in carpaccio with a drizzle of olive oil, in sushi or simmered in papillote, not to mention the essential and traditional curry, the drum fish is easy to cook. 

Its white flesh is a delight.  To have a hunch, its taste is similar to the bass.  Sample without restraint...      

Text and photos :
Florence MERLEN
January 2008