Not a day goes by without seeing one off the coast. According to experts the waters of Réunion Island were particularly busy this year. However, we are not talking about swimmers, but whales. Every austral winter, these impressive cetaceans come back to Réunion Island’s coastline to give birth and to bring up their young, before setting off again into the open seas.

Some tour operators offer you the opportunity to go and meet these sea creatures in their natural habitats. Those seeking a truly intimate encounter, can also swim with the whales, so long as they don’t disturb them.

At 9 o’clock we leave the harbour of Saint Leu, on a semi-rigid boat, similar to a “Zodiac”. There are about ten people on board accompanied by Pascal, the sports education captain at “Abyss Plongée.”

Whilst everyone embarks onto the inflatable boat, he gives out the last recommendations. One of them is for everyone to look towards a different part of the horizon, so as to be sure not to miss anything.
From June to November, the coast off of Réunion Island abounds with whales. They find a warm sea in which the females give birth and bring up their young before setting off again.

“One has to stay at least 100 meters behind the whales, to a slight angle” explains Pascal. Since setting out, he has been in constant contact with Virginie Boucaud from the Globice Association, who is also at sea. Accompanied by her team, she observes and records the cetaceans every week. Six whales are spotted, scattered off the coast of Saint Paul.

The ocean is gentle with small waves, during our day out. “The conditions are for observing the whales. On the other hand, do not expect to see the tail of a whale, as the young cannot remain under water for more than 6 minutes. Consequently, their mothers won’t sound,” revealed our captain.

Our goal is in sight. A handful of boats are already at the spots. There are two Grand Bleu boats overflowing with passengers. “Those boats don’t really respect the rules,” retorts Pascal. Although, there are not yet any whale and dolphin watching regulations in Réunion Island, everyone is expected to follow some basic guidelines (see box). It’s a matter of common sense and respect for nature.

Cries of joy can be heard when the team notices a whale squirting water. Far off, we marvel at its’ calf doing a few acrobatic movements. It is not easy to photograph them. Should one wish to do so, one needs to be quick and forget about the waves rocking the boat.

No matter what, whale watching is a fantastic experience. Most probably annoyed by the boat loads of people watching them, the whale disappear rapidly. Yet, within minutes, another one is sighted. We pursue it from a distance.

As soon as the captain gives us the all-clear, the team slips on flippers, diving masks and snorkels. Pascal thinks that the animal is heading our way. No time is wasted and the divers are soon into the water. The whale and its calf pass by a few meters away from them. “It lasts only for a few seconds but the sight is magnificent. Seeing this gigantic specimen swimming in this marine blue water is just magic”, exclaim a young woman whilst hauling herself up into the Zodiac..

The show is far from over. A shoal of dolphins swims nearby. Being not particularly shy, they approach our boat without hesitation. The divers plunge into the water again, but this time the marine mammals don’t appear to be in the mood and soon disappear..

“We are not always lucky enough to observe whales on every outing. Where the sea is concerned, we cannot guarantee anything,” continues Pascal. Even in this unfortunate case, the company won’t refund you.

“If we don’t see anything, then we’ll go diving behind the coral reef in l’Hermitage. The reef is wonderful over there”. There is no doubt that this half day spent off the western coast of Réunion Island is worth the detour.

Text: Laurène Mazier - Photos: L.M et Abyss Plongée