A return to the roots

Corner shops can be spotted in all areas of Reunion Island. Representative of the local culture, these “boutik” are always full and cater to the numerous needs of the locals. Being more than mere mini supermarkets, these shops are holding onto a tradition that no one wishes to cease.

On the street corners of every neighbourhood, these businesses do well for themselves. One can find all kinds of products, from the “Dodo” beer to the “bonbons cravates”. No one is sure of how long these corner shops have existed for, but one thing is sure: our ancestors knew about them. Whether they are seen as a tradition, a myth or a meeting place, the soul of Réunion Island resides on the walls covered by local advertisements.

Let’s embark on a journey into the past and learn about the evolution of these “corner shops” so greatly cherished by the locals.

In the old days, there was no place in Réunionese society for supermarkets or other forms of modernity. Most of the trading was carried out by the small traders who converted their homes into a corner shops. As, at the time, the Réunionese population received their salaries daily or weekly, they did their shopping everyday at the local corner shop. Not only were these local shops practical, but they also allowed customers to exchange their news and chat whilst enjoying a glass of rum. Over the course of time, well aware of the major importance of this “snack”, the traders decided to set up small bars in a separate room next to the shop, in order to attract the gossipers. Hence, the origin of this tradition explains how corner shops have come to have such a major role in Réunionese life.

Unique moments from inside these modest walls are still engraved in people’s memories: children playing marbles on all fours on the earthen floors, adults haggling over the price of a kilo of flour or the elderly telling stories of the past. Irène, from the village of La Bretagne, says in a wistful tone : “My mother always sent me off to buy rice or manioc powder at the corner shop and I was allowed to buy “rowroote” sweets with the change. However, very often there was no change, and the owner would give me a sweet for free” .

A gossip over a glass of rum

Even if modernity has overridden tradition, corner shops are doing their best to survive. However, because of the dominance of larger chains, many owners have been forced to close down their shops and, as a result of having less and less customers, the remaining businesses have been compelled to increase their prices on food products in order to compensate.

However, local products such as beer, “macatia” (a kind of brioche), honeyed sweets or “cravates” are still in great demand and ensure the continuing existence of these shops.

The major success of these businesses can be mainly attributed to the ‘on account’ facility offered by the owners. The customers, who, thanks to their daily shopping expeditions have built up firm relationships with the shop owners, remain faithful to their corner shop and can be considered as ‘regulars’ or even friends of the owners. Therefore, the few local “Dodo” beers drunk during the day and the morning bread can be paid for at the end of the week or month.

Today, the customers of these corner shops are mainly locals and everyday it’s amazing to note how many people gather in front of the shops that can be considered as part of the Réunionese landscape. Despite their rather high prices, corner shops are always convenient for last minute shopping. One must hope that the traditional beer consumers will not give up on their usual dive in favour of larger supermarkets and be responsible for the end of such an important local tradition.

Text : Béatrice Gonthier
Photographs : L.M et B.G
August 2007