Have a break at the Saint-Paul market

A visit to the market of Saint-Paul is imperative, a break that is almost compulsory which indeed appears in tourist guides. It is one of the major markets in Réunion Island along with the one in Saint-Pierre. A tour across the island would be incomplete without this colourful stop.

The water front in Saint-Paul is in full swing on market days; Fridays and Saturdays. It's three in the morning, from boxes to small vans, the sellers bustle about to get down to the job as from 06 00am sharp. A place steeped in history, it's right here that the famous pirate, Olivier Levasseur known as "La Buse" is buried a little faraway in a marine cemetery. It was decided by the law that he should get hanged in 1730. Today, the piracy is forgotten, the marketplace turns out to be a lively spot, blurred and noisy with colourful flavours. "There is the smell of fruits and vegetables, but also the straw hats and sea spray," explained Nathalie from La Possession, much in love with her market. "It's like a journey, I get totally disconnected from a week of work."

Loads of fruits and vegetables

Sometimes, the market of Saint-Paul looks like a Moroccan souk when the stallholders shout hoarsely to boast the freshness of their products. One will find everything: homemade coconut-flavoured ice cream, basketworks, essential oils, spices, embroideries, local honey, samosas, kalou pilon, Malagasy handicrafts, herb tea for all sicknesses, straw hats and so on... And of course, all tropical fruits and vegetables that are cultivated across the island are found there.

Leading products are found on the stalls. The chili, whether it be red, green or paste is an imperative in the Reunionese cuisine. There are many small producers, who sell this. A squared table, a chair, a small tin to measure and the chilies are rapidly sold out.

Another leading product found at the market of Saint-Paul is the pineapple from Saint-André. Being smaller than those from Africa and South America, it is one of the best in the world and is famous for its very sweet taste. Besides, you'll easily let yourself get carried away, the aisles are filled with the scents of delicious fruits. And as any good market, that of Saint-Paul remains true to its type: "There is always a mean to bargain," underlined Nathalie.

The taste of Réunion Island

The market is an opportunity to get oneself used to products that are virtually unobtainable in Mainland France. Fresh products with a guaranteed taste. "Brèdes," jackfruit, "margoze," "pitahaya," "zatte," "embérique," jujube, tamarind, combava, "pimpin," "songe" and "Coeur de boeuf"...the list is lengthy. The small producers will be delighted to make you discover these so singular fruits and vegetables and their way of cooking. A striking journey to a land of flavours.

Where? When?

Along the water front if Saint-Paul.
Friday all-day long and Saturday morning.

Text and photos : Florence MERLEN 2008