During harvest time in January, the wine growers in the Cirque of Cilaos annually pay tribute to their patrons. The festivity of Saint-Vincent invades the streets of the village for a weekend.
Hardly 15 days after the start of the harvest, the Confrérie du Pied de Raisin along with the Warehouse of Cilaos, the upper planning commission, the town of Cilaos and the Tourist Office are delighted to celebrate the St Vincent, patron of the wine growers.
The objectives of Pied de Raisin association are to expand and promote the well-known wine of Cilaos, to bring the amateurs of this regional wine together at the national and international levels, to preserve the viticulture heritage and to develop an image of quality of the local wine through the renowned label of "Vin de Pays."
During the festival, the members of the "Confrérie du Pied de Raisin" will reveal themselves through various animations such as an al fresco meal, parades along the streets of Cilaos, tasting, torchlight procession and the enthroning ceremony...to the public.
The vine was first introduced in Cilaos at about 1860, primarily for its fruits. It's the Vitis Labrusca, l'Isabelle. The temperate and dry climate of Cilaos was appropriate for this type of vine which prevents illnesses and which has a high productivity.
Wine making were first tried in 1915. According to an oral tradition, Charles Pivot is the first wine producer in Peter Both. The latter has carefully watched the method of wine making in Mainland France whereof he fought during the First World War.
However, the wine produced was of poor quality because of the cultivated grape variety. Indeed, the outbreak of phylloxera which destroys the vines in Mainland France in 1868 lead to the prohibition of the noblest grape varieties cultivated in renowned vineyard, because of their susceptibility to disease. As a result and until recently, Cilaos has been able to evolve into a quality wine production.
In 1975, a decree prohibits the production of wine from the Isabelle grape. Yet, it remains deeply rooted in the tradition of Cilaos. Sold along the road or in small grocery stores, it is unfortunately well-known to make one goes crazy.
It's in the late 80s that about ten vintners of the cirque of Cilaos decide to take up the challenge of a modern vintner. In 1992, the Chai emerges and the first wine makings are done in 1998. The production improves over the years and it gains its recognition in 2004 thanks to the term "Vin de pays de Cilaos." Today, the Chai produces around 50 000 bottles annually.
Vincent is born in a noble family in the late 3rd century, in Huesca, a small Spanish town at the foot of the Pyrenees. He decided to become a man of the church at a very young age. He becomes a deacon and later, an archdeacon in Saragossa.
In these days, the Christians were persecuted throughout the Roman Empire. Vincent was imprisoned and tortured. Many miracles saved the unfortunate one from death. However, after agonizing pains, Vincent died on the 22nd January 304.
According to some people, the wine growers choose this name because the word "vin" (wine) is found in the name of the Saint. It is also argued that a wine press was used to torture Saint-Vincent. Others also depict the deacon activity, which pour the wine in the chalice at the altar, whilst others believe that the cult of the saint first originated in Bourgogne. He became the patron of the Burgundian wine growers before extending in Champagne, the two regions were nearby and closely linked. However, any of these assumptions was historically confirmed and the mystery remains unsolved.
In Mainland France, the festivity of Saint-Vincent means time off for the vines, hence extra time and freedom for the wine growers who can peacefully pay tribute to their Saint patron.
Véronique Tournier
January 2008
